Getting lost won’t wait for you in Venice. It begins even before you get there.
The signboard for my bus from Munich says Venedig. It takes a while to figure, that some languages have a different way of saying a city’s name.
No matter how much you try to plan your travels, unnecessary walks are a part of travelling and one must learn to embrace these treks. Its time to re- adjust to a new language, culture, climate and price list, again. The Constituzione bridge may look good but it isn’t an easy climb.
When they show you pictures of Venice one expects nostalgic streets, a few gondolas, the smell of moisture, the sound of water and bridges from where one can adore these characteristics. The glass windows of shops, the many tourists floating past in gondolas one after the other, the smell of expensive perfume combined with sweat and crowded bridges with selfie sticks, that’s all it seems to be at first glimpse.
Venice has seen a fair amount of wealth through most of its history, with the help of its maritime location (naval power, trade, artistic movements and opera music, through its time with its Churches, Doges, Austrian empire and corrupt politicians). Like any other city , it has also seen bad times through the plague, slavery, war and oppression of minorities, among others.
Now, some gasp from the Bridge of Sighs- seeing what wealth means in today’s age- materialism and consumerism. Venice’s mainland (terraferma) now, seems to have become a hot spot for vacationers to transform into slow walking pedestrians. Some of the reasons for this being- window shopping on narrow crowded streets, to use their i- phones, to take selfies at the most inconvenient spots and for some honeymooning couples to fight about getting lost in spite of google map’s involvement. You hardly see people looking up at the old structure above the ground floor. They are distracted by the windows at eye level filled with things no one needs.
Those peeking into Venice from the decks of their cruise ships, do not have any thoughts on the propellers below them thrashing water against the alder timber foundations of Venice. These monstrosities make close grazes past Venice’s terraferma and are quite intimidating in fact and impression . The tourists around are fascinated and click photos of these cruise ships with their backs facing the Giardini and its beautiful backdrop. The floating disrespect for this place can invoke frustration.
Is this really what Venezia has come to? The exhibits regarding Venice at the Biennale, share a similar perspective. Some ideas talk about introducing new, understated structures to help the the youth of Venice create a new vision for their city while respecting its heritage. It’s youth continue with their passions amidst the ignorant chaos, some middle aged move away and the elderly walk through the heavy crowds with their heads faced downwards.
This cannot be Venice. It must be a blatant image to protect its true beauty.
What remains of Venezia is tucked away in quiet corners, in unassuming floors above the shopping windows and the streets that have survived hotelier invasions. People are forgiving of what we do to each other, they always find a way to adapt. If it means getting around on their personal boats through some fairly vacant canal routes, or carrying horizontal skateboards on their backs as a form of pedestrian revolt- the unsettled cannot shake the locals out despite their innocent unfamiliarity.
There’s a different pace on its other islands, and they’re beauty, friendliness is diverse. A boat ride after the sun sets gives one a perspective on how the islands distanced by the Adriatic lagoon make each island’s heart grow fonder.
Don’t you dare spend more than two days in Venice if you want to be a tourist. If you really want to know Venezia and are willing to behave well, connect with this multi layered city- you’ll find it difficult to leave.
(Image: A painting from the sixty- seven canvases of Gabriel Bella’s collection of Venetian life in the eighteenth century; displayed at the Museum of Fondazione Querini Stampalia)
Floccinaucinihilipilificating 